The way a diamond is cut
and polished is vital. It is the precision and delicacy
of the cut that dictates the maximum amount of light
the diamond will refract and reflect. The better it
has been cut, the greater will be its brilliance, sparkle
and fire.
When a diamond is cut to good proportions, light is
internally reflected from one facet to another and then
dispersed through the crown, or top, of the diamond.
(1) If the cut is too deep, then some light will escape
through the opposite side of the pavilion, or bottom,
of the diamond. (2)
If the cut is too shallow, then some light will escape
through the pavilion, or bottom, before it can be reflected.
(3)
So a well cut diamond is comprised of facets with the
correct angles, which are perfectly placed to maximize
the diamond’s brilliance. It is the quality of
the cut and its final polish that unlocks the hidden
beauty.
There are many shapes and
sizes of diamonds. But whatever the shape or size, the
cut is the only human element. A diamond cut to good
proportions will have more value than one which is not.
Color
Most diamonds
look colorless, but there are many subtle shade differences
and the closer a diamond is to having no color the more
valuable it becomes. Why does the color vary? Well,
in the chaos of extreme temperature and pressure that
first created diamonds, traces of elements such as nitrogen
and boron could have been incorporated into the diamond’s
atomic structure.
It is these
traces that give a diamond its color – or lack
of it. Diamonds with no hint of color at all are very
rare. But also rare are diamonds with strong color.
These are called “Fancies”. Red, pink, and
blue are the most prized, but virtually all colors are
possible. Most gem quality diamonds, seem on their own,
may well appear to be colorless. But usually they do
have at least a hint of color – this is normally
yellow or brown due to traces of nitrogen.
Clarity
Thanks to
nature, every diamond is unique. Each one possesses
its own individuality. This could be due to minute traces
of other minerals trapped during the crystallization
process.
These natural characteristics,
called “inclusions” are better described
as nature’s fingerprints and help gemologists
determine the age of a diamond. The number, color, nature,
size and position of any inclusions determines the clarity
of a diamond.
The fewer inclusions,
the rarer it will be graded, and the more light it will
reflect, making it more valuable. Since it is very rare
to find a diamond that has no inclusions, the closer
to flawless it is the greater the value.
Carat
Weight
The last of
the 4Cs is Carat Weight. A diamond’s weight is
the simplest of its characteristics to measure, and
from the earliest times has been used to calculate one
aspect of the value of a diamond. The carat is a unit
of weight which derives from the carob seed. The pods
of the carob, or locust tree, contain tiny seeds which
are remarkably consistent in weight. These seeds were
used by early gem traders to weigh their diamonds.
A 1 carat diamond used
to equal the weight of a carob seed, but in today’s
terms a carat is a standard metric weight of 0.2 grams
or 1/142 of a standard ounce. Each carat is divided
into 100 points. So, for example, a quarter of a carat
is 25 points, written as 0.25; a half a carat is 50
points, written as 0.50, and so on. It is easy to weigh
an unmounted diamond, but once it is in a setting, it
is only possible to estimate its weight by using special
gauges and formulae.
Remember, Carat Weight
has no bearing on a diamond’s cut, color or clarity.
